Kandy: the Temple of the Tooth and the last royal capital

Kandy was the capital of the last Sri Lankan kingdom, which held out against the Portuguese and the Dutch until the British took it in 1815. The city lies around a lake, surrounded by green hills, and is home to Sri Lanka’s most important Buddhist shrine. The sacred city of Kandy is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

What to see

The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic (Sri Dalada Maligawa). The temple holds a tooth relic of the Buddha. The relic itself is kept in a golden casket and is not shown, but the daily ceremonies, with drums, flowers and crowds of pilgrims, are an experience. Visit during an evening ceremony.

Kandy Lake. An easy walk around the lake, built by the last king of Kandy.

Royal Botanic Garden, Peradeniya. About 15 minutes from the city. Avenues of palms, a giant Javan fig tree, an orchid house and hundreds of fruit bats in the trees.

Kandyan dance. Short evening performances of drumming and traditional dance, including fire walking at the end.

Bahirawakanda Buddha. A large white Buddha statue on a hill above the town, with a view over Kandy.

Tea and spices nearby. On the way to or from Kandy you can visit a spice garden near Matale or a tea museum and factory in the hills.

The Esala Perahera

Every year in July or August, Kandy holds the Esala Perahera, one of Asia’s great festivals. For ten nights, processions of dancers, drummers, fire performers and decorated elephants parade through the streets. Hotels are full and prices are high, so book early. The dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year.

How many days?

One to two nights. One evening for the temple ceremony and one day for the garden and the town.

Tips

• Dress respectfully at the temple: shoulders and knees covered, shoes off. White or light clothes are a nice gesture.
• Traffic in Kandy is heavy at rush hour. Your driver will plan around it.
• If you take the train from Kandy into the hills, book seats in advance.